THE WATCH DOCTOR'S WATCH HEALTH GUIDE

The Watch DoctorGreetings and welcome to the Watch Doctor's waiting room. The information given in this Watch Health Guide should help prevent some trips into the surgery by assisting you to keep your timepiece(s) in good working order. So the first thing, as with any health issue, is to get to know the patient.

To be a good and caring watch owner requires you to have at least a basic understanding of your timepiece(s). You may find a quick visit to our dictionary helpful at some point. On the subject of 'know thy watch', I have to admit to some amazement when a patient was brought to me recently by it's owner who was most unhappy that the watch wasn't going. "How come it needs a new battery so soon?" he demanded, "I paid a lot for this only a few days ago, so I am NOT happy!". Well he wasn't happy either when, after a quick examination, I resuscitated (posh medical jargon for 'brought back to life') his watch, by WINDING it. Yes, dear seeker, the client had bought a mechanical, hand wound wristwatch and was blissfully of the opinion that it was battery powered and therefore didn't require winding.

Well, I also blame the sales assistant who sold it to him for not ensuring the client understood the basic operations of his new timepiece. So, as prevention is better than a cure, my first piece of advice is:

  • Always read any instructions that came with your watch and when buying a watch get the sales assistant to run through its operation. (Note: If the staff don't know how your watch operates I would head for another place to spend your money).

You see, proper care of a timepiece is no different to looking after anything mechanical. You wouldn't, presumably, run your car for the next couple of years without having it serviced every 10,000 miles/12 months and checking the tyres, fuel and fluid levels regularly. So why would you expect a watch to run forever? So my next piece of advice is:

  • Get into the habit of scheduling regular servicing/inspection of any watches by a competent watch doctor. For a mechanical watch, hand wound or automatic, I would recommend a service every 2-3 years. This keeps the lubrication up to correct levels and condition to protect the moving parts (yes, a watch does need oiling!), equally important is that the case seals/gaskets get replaced which ensures the correct levels of protection against dust and moisture entering the movement through case back, crystal and winding crown/pushers.

If your watch - unlike the patient mentioned earlier, IS battery powered then you should check to see if the watch is equipped with EOL: End Of Life indication. This is a feature of most quality modern quartz watches where the circuitry monitors the charge in the power cell and when this starts to fall below a certain level (indicating that it will fail within a short period of time) the watch makes the second hand jump in two second intervals (some models use 4/5 secs) and this tells you to get the watch battery replaced. So for you battery powered quartz watch owners here's my next piece of advice:

  • Please do not keep a quartz watch with a 'dead' battery for any length of time. Get it changed as soon as possible as a dead battery can (and usually does) leak after a while and this corrodes the contacts and can seriously damage your watch.

Another point that I need to raise regarding Quartz watches is in regard to accuracy. The truth is that most Quartz watches are more accurate than the majority of mechanical wristwatches - even chronometers - and there is a good reason why. The world's fastest beating mechanical movement was developed by Zenith and is still known as the 'El Primero'. In this movement the balance wheel performs 36,000 oscillations per hour, which is 10 cycles per second. That's very fast for such a small thing and makes this movement a premium collectable - especially when installed into the earlier Rolex Daytona Cosmographs. A quartz oscillator, however, delivers 32,768 cycles per second! So if you knock something oscillating 10 times a second (but more usually quality mechanical watch movements are slower, often at 28,800 oscillations) and also knock one at 32,768 a second, which one will register the most disturbance? A 'glitch' of several oscillations in a mechanical movement occurring several times a day results in a noticeable variation in time keeping accuracy. A quartz watch however doesn't notice it! So when a quartz watch isn't keeping time there's a problem which leads to the next piece of advice:

  • If a quartz watch is not keeping time this is almost never anything to do with the battery. Get the watch back to an authorised dealer for the model, or to your local watch doctor for a check up. In normal operation tiny fragments of metal dust are formed and usually are captured by one of the magnetic poles of the step motor(s). But sometimes this 'swarf' gets into the gears that control the hand movements and a 'train block' results causing intermittent missed beats of the seconds hand.

Moving on, dear browser, I want to just get back to the basics of winding a mechanical watch. Whether your watch is 'manual' - that means hand wound - or 'automatic' - which we also call self winding - the mainspring has to have been wound to operate the movement. A mechanical watch can take as much as 40+ hours to run down completely from fully wound. An automatic takes its winding from the movement of the watch in general wear but a sedate lifestyle or being left on a bedside table overnight will mean the mainspring isn't being kept sufficiently wound to keep operating. I remember a lovely elderly client bringing in their Rolex perpetual complaining that it kept stopping. Sadly, upon subtle and gentle questioning of the client's son, I learned that she spent nearly all day in a Parker Recliner at the local home. Fortunately a quick guide to having the staff give it a manual wind each day solved the problem! So my next piece of advice for owners of non-automatic mechanical watches is:

  • Get into a regular routine of winding your watch. I suggest winding it every morning and last thing at night. The best way is to hold the winding crown between thumb and forefinger and wind in a 'back and forth' motion of the crown 12-15 times or until resistance is felt. It is pretty hard to 'overwind' a watch if you do this slowly and gently. By keeping the mainspring wound this way you increase the accuracy and reliability of the watch.

For owners of automatic - self winding - wristwatches who are not physically active or who do not wear the watch all the time, my advice is:

  • Talk to your watch dealer about purchasing a winder box for your watch. This is a box that holds your watch and, either through mains or battery power, slowly turns the watch thus causing the rotor to move and wind the mainspring. Alternatively: if your watch stops after being off your wrist you can wind it with the same back and forth motion of the crown mentioned above. However, the gearing in the movement of automatic watches is different to hand wound ones so you must wind slowly and gently about 15-20 times which will be enough to start the movement and you can then set the time and wear the watch as normal.

Well dear reader that's all I have time for right now. I will be dishing out more advice very soon so please be sure to visit me here in my waiting rooms again soon. In the meantime I hope this guide has been of interest and will help you to protect the health of your timepiece(s).

Cheerio!

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